Thursday, October 30, 2008

Kimberleys and sweeping into Broome





Well we have made it to WA!


The drive from Katherine to Kununurra was one of the most enjoyable so far for the whole trip - the scenery is just so exciting and so many colours. We passed through Victoria River and Timber Creek Roadhouses and have made a mental note that we probably need to explore Gregory National Park at a later date.


It is worth noting the price of beer in Timber Creek where thr majority of the population is indigenous. This is particularly interesting for Peter as both Judy and Irene have rediscovered the joys of a cold beer and are drinking his stock.


The price Peter paid in Cairns was $33 for 30 can slab of xxxx, in Timber Creek the same slab was $98.50!

The entry into WA was interesting going through quarantine, we met a very thorough but personality challenged inspector who went through every cupboard and even under the car and van without cracking a smile - he took his job very seriously!

We found the caravan park at Kunurra and after one night decided that we would need to pack up and move sites, due to the amount of sun we would experience (I have now resigned as site manager and that is handled by the manager of transport, planning, logistics and anything else that Judy and I feel needs to be done). On a positive, the site we moved to was not available the day before and it turned out to be a fantastic site - very shady and close to all amenities.

We ended up staying in Kununurra for a week as we found it to be a great place. We decided to treat ourselves and went for a two hour flight over the Bungle Bungles - which really was well worth the $. So many colours, so vast, so hard to describe. The flight also went over the Argyle Diamond Mine which is the largest diamond producer in the world.



The following morning we spent on the Argyle Dam - so much water (30 times the size of Sydney Harbor), 45 klm wide - hopefully the photos above give you some idea, you cannot see from one side of the lake to the other. After that wewent back to Kunnurra on another boat on the Ord River. - a 55 km trip. The Argyle Dam has so much potential it is unbelievable only about 10% of the water is used the other 90% goes inmto the sea. In the last major wet 7 gigalitres per second were going over the spillway, this is enough to supply Perth for 1 year going over the spillway in a day-this went on every day for three months!


As Judy has missed out on seeing crodiles we went for a day trip to Wyndam (temp at 42degC) and took in the crocodile farm and the other sites of Wydhan - not a lot but the view from the lookout where you can see the five rivers meet is truly magnificent. It would be something to see in the wet. Again some interesting facts about Cambridge Gulf at Wyndam, there are 5 rivers running into the gulf. Of all the total outflow of every river into the sea along thje Australian coast 25% comes out of these 5 rivers into the Cambridge Gulf.


Wyndam was very hot the day we were there, the average daily temperature year round is 37.6deg.


While in Kununurra met with people who were managing the Daly Waters pub while we were there - very nice people and as Irene (yes that was her name and also a strong willed capricorn) was a hairdresser both Judy and I took advantage of her skills - probably saying "make it short and tidy " may have been a mistake but at least I will not need to worry about it for a while. We did have a laugh though as they were also at Katherine and witnessed us driving around the park (eight times) looking for the right site - another reason why I have resigned as site manager.

After a week of the beautiful scenery, taking in the sunset at the old pump station and flopping in the pool every afternoon we finally decided to move on. We had been advised by everyone to just get petrol in Halls Creek and then drive on however we thought the drive thrpough to Fitzroy Crossing (600k's) may have been a bit much so thought we might free camp at Mary Pool rest area. We arrived at Mary Pool by lunchtime and it was a dust bowl, so after lunch decided to go on to Fitzroy Crossing - what an oasis in the desert is the Fitzroy Crossing Lodge which was just lovely. Hall's Creek made the claim to be the oasis in the Kimberly but someone had strategically changed the sign to read "Arse of the Kimberley" - we did not disagree.


At Irene's re quest we dropped into Derby which was a nice little place although not much to see or do and we only stayed one night.


Some of the places we have seen recently look suitable candidates to house "Australia's most wanted" they are a bit sus.


The next day we arrived in Broome where we have decided to stay for about 8 days - at least that way we can celebrate Melbourne Cup and relax - more about that in the next update.

Some of the trip has been a bit like Chevy Chases' classic movie American Vacation, at Derby for example we went into have a cup of coffee and like Wally World they were closed for the day. Not to be disappointed when we got to Broome we went to the Waterfront Cafe and ........the only day of the year it was closed too! A good note though, Irene and Brian have arrived in Broome and we will be all lunching together for Melb Cup - as usuial Judy is the grand organiser!














Saturday, October 18, 2008

Drought breaks in Darwin but still no rain

Most importantly you can see from the picture that Peter has broken his fishing drought, but more about that later,

Our first stop enroute to Darwin was at Banka Banka Station. This is part of a 3 million acre station owned by the Kidman Pastoral Company. There are three stations in all - Helen Springs, Binchilli and Banka Banka. The manager gave a slideshow and talk on the station (which is still a working cattle station) which gave some insight into the work and lifestyle - I dont think we want to change our lifestyle. It was a great place to stay for the night.

Next stop was Daley Waters Pub - a must for anyone travelling to stop at. The facilities are a little rustic but the Barra and Steak BBQ - the best ever!

I have also found that Beer is just the best to drink in the heat - I had forgotten how good a cold beer tastes - although Peter reckons it diminshes his supplies!

While we were in the area it has given Peter and I an opportunity to visit some of the WW2 sites Peters Dad served at. Pleasingly were were able find all, but not get to some, but we did take some photos and send them home for him to look at. There are sites all the way to Darwin so it gives some indication of the effort and hardship of the time. Soberingly when you visit the Adelaide River War Cemetery you realise that most of the guys who gave their lives were only kids.
Mataranka was our next stop, just for the night so we could visit the hotsprings. We went to two of them, Bitter Springs and the one near the Caravan resort. Both were very nice and refreshing, however it was bat mating season and the one at the resort you had to ignore the smell on the walk to the spring.

We decided we would go via Kakadu to Darwin - so that where we went to next and stayed at the Kakadu Lodge at Jabiru, where a little lizard I christened Hector became friendly with us. While at Jabiru we went on a cultural cruise down the East Alligator River - saw many many "snaping handbags", great scenery and the biggest sand beach due to erosion of sandstone during the wet in 2006 - 750,000 tons of sand. They are now hoping for another big wet so that the river can be washed out as some of it has blocked access further up the river. The escarpment is just wonderful - so many colours. Also the guide told us to go to the crossing (it goes into Arnhem Land) at high tide and the crocs would come down to catch fish - sure enough there were the crocs, and a guy trying to catch Barra from the crossing.We watched for a while while two crocs eyed him.

It was then off to Darwin. I last went to Darwin some 20 years ago and I thought I would keep an open mind as I did not like it then - well in my opinion there is still nothing good about Darwin - except the colour of the harbour. It probably did not help that the caravan park we stayed at (after recommendations) was not up to the usual standard - facilities not clean! But we had to get the van and car services - so there we were. Also we thought we needed to give ourselves a rest and we were hopeful that Judy would get the all clear and be able to join us.

Interestingly in Darwin you are quite restricted with the number of places to get work done. We were lucky to find Pratt NT who were great with the van and had to endure Hidden Valley Ford (sole Darwin Dealer) who really gave the impression of not caring. We had tried to email them on two ocassions on our way to Darwin to make bookings using their system and they never resonded. When we rasied this with them - care factor zero!
But enough grumbles - where did we go? Mindil Markets (sunset the best), Cullen Bay, Wharf Precinct, Nightcliffe - all over really, we had a good look and went to most areas. I was also able to catch up and say hello to Lyne Balchin who is with the police force in Darwin and I have not seen her since high school days. We had an intersting day when the van had to go for a service. I decided that it would be better for me to stay at the site and keep the engel cold - so Peter made a humpy for me and that is where we stayed all day with jug and coffee makings. Peter also joined me, (see photo of him doing the quick change after a swim and he is decent!)






We then got the good news that Judy would be rejoining us on 13 October, 0.50am the plane would arrive! Arrive she did after having very close calls with boarding planes on time. Poor Pete was taking the car for the service at 7.30am so he did not have much sleep that day.

On Tuesday 14 October, the drought was broken - the fishing drought that it. Peter went fishing at Corroborree Billabong - he caught 5 Barra, a saratoga, a tarpin and a gigantic catfish (8kg) and all in all was very pleased with himself. I am suree he has already contacted a considerable number of people to gloat. Funnily enough - the guy that took him out was Peter who was a bricklayer from Jerrabomberra, it really is a small world. We have photographic evidence for all the non believers and boy has the Barra been beautiful to eat.




We took a drive up to Adelaide River and Litchfield National Park - in some ways it is prettier that Kakadu. For our travellers with recuperating fractures and knees that need replacing the waterfalls and views are more accessible. Again beautiful country. Adelaide River was interesting in that it has a war cemetary - some 400 people are buried there - beautifully presented. Also the little pub has Charlie the Buffalo stuffed - he was the buffalo in the original Crocodile Dundee movie.

We experienced two storms in Darwin and the van site was a little mudheap, plus I have been suffering from insect bites and news came through that there was to be a midgie plague - something I did not need - so we decided to move on from Darwin a couple of days earlier that we had anticipated.
All were in agreement the right decision was made - Katherine (which was our next stop) is great - good dry heat, van park excellent and this morning we had the best breakfast cruise on the Katherine Gorge. It was two gorges and we had to walk about 600metre from one boat to another - Judy managed it very well, although she did try and throw her walking stick away in the water only to have it rescued by one of the other tourists. Thank god they were nimble! We really enjoyed the gorge - one of those pieces of Australia that everyone should try and get to at some stage.

Peter and I also visited the hot springs and while they were refreshing they were not of the same standard as Mataranka. I also need to mention the indigenous population - not until you see the towns can you realise how they live and the intervention has pushed many from the rural to the urban. It really is a sorry sight.

Next it is off to Western Australia, we expect to stay at least a week in Kununurra, then Broome and down the west coast.