The Red Centre

Following our stay in Mt Isa we continued our way west passing through Camooweal crossing the NT border and stopping for the night at Barkley Homestead. At this night stop we met Denis and Joan who are also travelling around Oz and we may meet up with them further on up the track. Peter was also able to watch the football at the roadhouse while we were having dinner.

At Three Ways we then turned south going through Tennant Creek where we made a quick visit to Battery Hill - the history of mining in the district and continued to Wauchope (pronounced walkup) where we stayed the night in the grounds of the pub (it is the only building in town). We went to see the Devils Marbles (9km) and found there was a lovely campground - so will stay there on the return trip to Darwin. The pub was a wonderful oasis and the dip in the pool was just the thing against the temperature of about 37deg.

Enroute to Alice the next day we passed through Ti Tree where Peters father spent a couple of days during WW2 as we progressed you could see there was a storn brewing and then the rain came! Twice we had to pull off the road - two storms went over us. Then picture on the left is taken in the rear vision mirror and show the storm overtaking us. As we drove into Alice Springs we realised just how fierce the storms were - trees and power lines down everywhere. When we found our van park we were lucky we did not arrive earlier - trees down, awnings ripped off etc. People were making the best of it and having a few laughs and at least no one was hurt.

We decided to only stay the one night in Alice and continue to Ayers Rock and the Olgas (we would stay a few days on our return). So we set off for the Rock - many people think it is just down the road but it is a 1000km round trip and one that requires a lot of concentration - road trains, narrow roads, road works and cows cows cows. We decided on three days stay and we went to the only campground available (you have no choice unless you stay 70km away). This turned out to be very expensive and the worst facilities (filthy) we have had since starting our trip. Talking to people - all the complaints were the same. I decided to provide some feedback and they apologised and said it was due to busloads of schoolkids they had arrive - of course I could not help but continue the discussion with some advice about appropriate resources to meet requirements and the busloads would not be a surprise for them etc...They are a large resort and have the monopoly so doubt anything will change.

Enough with the grumbles - Ayers Rock, the most fantastic thing I have seen yet. Just brilliant, something really spiritual about it. Everyone must see it in their lifetime. It is hard to describe the sheer size and magnitude of it - you do not get sick of looking at it. The colours, the surface (to me looked like granite with red excema). I am not sure how people climb it (it was closed for the days we were there) - it would be so frightening. We were talking to a young english guy Nick, the night we were in Alice and he said he climbed it but he was so s... scared it was terrifying. We spent day at the rock and then went to the Olgas the next day. They also are magnificent - it is hard to imagine their age. What was differtent about the Olgas is they seem to be made of "glued"rocks and pebbles. The surface is scared from points where huge clumps seem to pop out.

On the way to the Rock we were also dumfounded to see Mt Connor in the distance (100ks before you get to the rock - it is 3 times the size of Ayers Rock and have decided that we will do it and Kings Canyon (would have been another 600km )on our next trip.

Just a general comment about the trip to the Rock is the diappointment about how people treat the place. The rangers try very hard to tidy up visitors still toss their rubbish around and don't give a stuff where it ends up. There were numerous times we did not take photos of gorges, caves, rock paintings etc because of the rubbish which would have been in the shot. Similarly there are defined paths people are asked not to stray from -means nothing to some. Finally Peter's patience was sorely tried on a number of ocassions when trying to frame the perfect photo only to have it interrupted by some ignorant prick (peters word) from the orient wandering in without any consideration of anyone but themselves.

We have been back in Alice for three days, staying at the same van park - G'Day Mate, it is a family owned pary and one we would recomend. Next we will head off up north for Darwin via Jabiru on the next part of the trip.

Further North and then Westward Ho

Our stay in Airlie beach was just delightful, although we did wonder as we had a pary of 25 school kids move into the van park righy behind us. For some peace and quiet we thought that we should do a cruise around the islands - not just any boat but a delightful catamaran, here we are thinking a great time we will have until the night before Peter was talking to the teacher in charge and we found out - they were going on the same boat! As it turned out they were great, the boat was not crowded and we had a great day (managed to have a few chardy's). One of the things Peter laughed at was my application for seniors cards for both of us ($39) - well by using them we saved $60 on the cruise. It was a good bit of advice from Trevor and Sylvia and we have now used them a number of times.

The trip covered about 50 nautical miles and we actually got to 16 knots under sail on the way home.

Like the rest of the east coast, Airlie is undergoing huge development, with a new marina almost completed and development muted for Shute Harbor. Developers have bought and closed 2 van parks for worker accommodation so things will continue to change. The locals are not too thrilled as it has become a bit dangerous at night with fighting at night a pretty regular occurance.

From there we travelled to Ingham and met Marg and Flyn from Jerilderie who were on their way home from Mareeba, the main aim was to give them some clothes that we have realised we will never wear. Spent a lovley few hours having a look at Lucinda which has a 1 kilometer pier which is used to get refined sugar to ships.

Finally on the 6 September we went to Cairns, making sure that we stopped at the Frosty Mango just north of Townsville. We discovered this icecream 14 years ago and it is still just as good - although they have upgraded the building and facilities.

We stayed in Crytal Cascades Van park - thank god no mosquitos or sandflies. I forgot just how alergic I was to sandflies (blisters and welts) - so it was time for the antihistermine and a rest from them (Peter did really well choosing this park). For the first two days - lovely weather and then rain, rain, rain!!!!! But taking the good with the bad drove to Port Douglas, northern beached and reaquainted ourselves with places we had been to some years ago.

We seemed to be blessed (not) whenever we had to hitch up or unhitch the van in Cairns - it bucketted rain every time.

It was also great to catch up with our friends Rendal, Jim and Karleah - we see them infrequently, so good to have the laugh and catch up on all things.

We also took the opportunity to c atch up with "Australia oldest Navy sailor" Tim Van Wyck who was still in Cairns with a job - for those who know Tim - he has not changed! He has recently had his appointment extended for another two years.

We also caught up with a very old friend who we have not seen for too many years - Bruno Mayne. For those who may have known Bruno during those mad times we did the Childrens Diabetic camps - like the rest of us he is a little older but still has the same sense of humor and gentle nature.


We were also able to get the couple of minor warranty repairs carried out to the van, so that we can be self sufficient on the road.

It was off to Cooktown on the 13 September, and as Peter had been doing all the driving up the east coast, once we were through Mareeba (it looked flat) I suggested I have a drive. Bad mistake! Everything was going well until some hills appeared (they were a mountain range actually) and I caught up to a road train who was travelling about 5km/hour - well my anxiety rose, blood pressure high. I could not do anything except follow Petes instructions (he was so good) - anyway we got through it but I pulled up at the first available area and let Pete take over again.

We stopped at the Palmer River Roadhouse for a coffee and the noted road train was there. I am still amazed by the Black Mountains just outside Cooktown.

While there has been some development since we were last in Cooktown, it is still small and still has the aura of yesteryear about it.

This was the place we thought Peter may get his fish, but...... on talking to the locals at the wharf, and the guy next door - the advice was "save your bait and money the only F#@* fish you will get is one in newspaper" So still no fish

The wharf in cooktown is a place where most people migrate to - even this fashion accessory for a BMW bike - her name was Candy.

For those interested cost of fuel in Cooktown was $1.50.9 per litre.




One of the more interesting things to happen in Cooktown was the change to Peters appearance - I was let loose with the hair clippers (see photo to the left). He did ask me to do it but I certainly thought I had really stuffed his hair, at the end of the session I did not know if I had a bowling ball or a criminal for a husband - mind you now 7 days later it is looking great!




On the 16 Sept we decided to head south to start the trek to Alice Springs. We did not stop on the tablelands as we have been there before and thought we would leave that for another time. So drove to a rest stop south of Tully - Bilyana, where we stopped for the night. Yes free camping, there was about 6 others there that night. It was great to have our own shower, hot water etc.

Next day was a right turn at Townsville and we headed west passing through Charters Towers (lunch and a walk around) - stopping at Hughendon for the night. That was a big day - some 500km. The next day we drove through Julia Creek (petrol $1.72per litre), Cloncurry and arrived in Mount Isa - another big day, but we knew we could rest up as we were staying in Mt Isa for two days. It was amazing how quickly we left the lush green of the coast behind, although it was considerably hilly to Mt Isa and we noticed the temperature climb. Today in Mt Isa it has been about 35deg - but a nice dry heat with a bit of a breeze. Needless to say the cold beer has been appreciated.

I also got over my previous driving experience and decided to take the plunge again. For the past couple of days Peter and I have shared the driving on the road - but I do not do towns, traffic lights, mountains or anything too difficult like reversing!. I was not looking forward to the road train experience but Peter has been excellent in his teaching - so while we are on the flat - I will continue to assist to be able to give Peter a rest.

We will next head for Alice Springs.

Well we are almost to the end of our third month and some stats for those interested- travelled almost 9000k's, used 1650 litres fuel, average cost for food and accommodation is less that $50 per day - and we have not been stingy to ourselves.

Spoke to Judy tonight (we contact her most everyother day as she is having the virtual tour) and the update is, after having further surgery in Albury, she sees the specialist on the 30 Sept, so we will then have a better idea when and where she may join us again. All her possessions are having a good time!

Further north 2 months on......

We cannot believe that 2 months have passed, we really are enjoying settling into this lifestyle.

Going up the east coast has been very enjoyable (except for Judy's incident) and as we have not been to some of the areas for up to 14 years it has been great - there are so many different terrains, follage and the wildelife is lovely. Peter has been doing a great job of driving (as I really did not want to drive on the Pacific / Bruce Highway).

The new van is going well, although with anything new there are som times little things to annoy you - we had to do minor repair to plumbing while at Noosa. Every time we let water out of the kitchen sink iy came up through the floor of the shower. Pete found this mobile caravan repair guy, Owen - well he turned out to be a real treasure. All fixed up now but we do have a sullage hose which we call "the alien" because it looks like something from he movie and seems to want to crawl out of the bag when ever we need to roll it up.

Before we left Noosa I managed to get Peter to go the the Emundi markets - I thought they were good markets but Pete's usual comment - "same crap" although he was entertained by these little fellows. The fellow working the "strings" really was very clever.

We next headed for Hervey Bay (waving to Jenny Hancocks and Mark Bonatos relatives n the way - we did not get the opportunity to contact them). We were last in Hervey Bay 14 years ago, and the amount of redevelopment going on is incredible (it is the same all the way up the coast). Although what they have done by the foreshore has certainly improved the walkways. We did walk right out to the end of the pier, and were entertained by a pelican atop a light fitting that caught fish that was thrown up to it. We also found that Barrhum Heads and Toogoom just north of Hervey Bay were lovely - both had nice little caravan parks right on the water and we did manage to have a nice fish lunch at a little place on the water in Toogoom.

We decided that we would have to visit Fraser Island again and this is what we went in (Arnie will be happy). There was only us and a young german couple, as it turned out the weather was not that kind to us - got very rough on the beach but we had a lovely day - morning tea, lunch (with wine/beer), afternoon tea, champagne / strawberies. A very good way to see the island. We chose this method as there had been three major accidents in the last 2 weeks, rollovers of troopies carrying up to 11 people. Seems the backpackers just cant handle the going at hi speed.

Rhonda Tulk, an old friend from Albury days who now lives at Buderim came dowm to see us - we were sitting having morning tea (as you do) when the caravan park manager came and asked if we were going and we said "No - tommorrow". Well it turns out we were due to go but.... our memory had left us and we quickly made arrangements to stay another night. It was great to catch up with Rhonda - although time passed too quickly.

Next it was off to Yeppoon. Very dry, still little rain in the area. Not sure if that area is top of our list but it was a good park and we saw two Tawney Frog Mouth Owls in the tree next to our van - a rare sight and to see two. We liked Emu Park a little place just south of Yeppoon - much more our style.

It was also at Yeppoon that I took to Peter's beard - amazinghow useful the plastic tablecloth is, and this is now another skill I have. Pete was pretty nervous to start with which was not alleviated when I dug the points of the trimmers into his throat twice (he doubted my motives). The result was OK.

We knew that we did not have anywhere booked between Yeppoon and Airlie Beach and we thought we would free camp, so Pete thought he better check all the gas connections worked. Well it was good news for the fridge and stove, but the gas hot water connection did not want to go (it works on electricity). It is probably some small thing as you can hear it try to start - but as the van is new we need to get an authorsised dealer. Unbelievably the closest is Alice Springs, so we have spoken to them and will get it attended to then.

We decided to go ahead with the camp idea, and decided to stay at Seaforth campgounds - lovely site just north of Mackay, 20 yards from the beach and they had hot showers for 20 cents (the only problem was the amount of mud on some of the kids using the shower and the lack of mum cleaning the shower after them). Everything worked ok, and I got to use the kettle given to us by Bob and Jenny to boil water for my coffee. Everyone would be proud of my efforts - although I did use the hairdryer in the facilities.

We are currently in Airlie Beach and will be in Cairns by 6 September

Thanks to those sending comments to the blog - we do enjoy reading them. Andy and Leanne were impressed with the look of the van, although I wonder if they will be as impressed with it in their driveway when we arrive for the Grand Prix in March.

We have got some news from home from Renee and Glen who are house-sitting ans looking after Mr Trumpy. He is obviously training them well. Firstly, they have put in nightlights so he can see around the stairs at night - now Renee organised to have him professionally washed although he does not look to impressed and has not shrunk in the wash (Renee sent this). We miss him terribly but are thrilled he is being cared for so well.

A new van and we have passed Brisbane

We returned to Nambucca to catch up with Judy, and she had made the decision to go home to Albury as it would be at least another 5 to 6 weeks before she would be able to join us. The target is for Judy to rejoin us at Alice Springs on about 26 September.



However while in the area we picked up a new van from Port Macquarie - yes only we would do this, but we decided that if we are to be on the road for the next 10 months then we would have a little more comfort (particularly good not to have to walk to facilities at 3.00am). The right offer was made on the old van so we decided to take the plunge. The new van is slightly larger (19ft) and has toilet and shower, hot water system, LCD TV and DVD, larger fridge and better heating / cooling etc.

After going through the saga of transferring everything from one van to another (did it in just under two hours) on 12 August we headed off to Ballina, only to find the pacific highway was shut due to an accident, so we stayed in the very small caravan park at Maclean and then had a short trip to Ballina on 13 August.

After stopping two days in Ballina, we then moved off to Noosa area, staying in Tewantin. Must say that we are not impressed by the Noosa area - too busy, too plastic and Peter says he has not seen so much makeup and spakel on so many "old shielas" for years.

While in Noosa we took the opportunity to have coffee with Gwen Robinson - a previous boss within ACT Health. For those people that knew Gwen - she has not changed, and retirement really suits her.

For those people that had money on Peter flying home from Brisbane - we have passed Brisbane and he is still here! He has not wet a fishing line - so still no fish.

Continuing the travels

There were no more events for the rest of our stay in Port Macquarie. While in PM we stayed right on the breakwater, which made it easy for Peter for fishing, a short walk to decent coffee shops and close for all other requirements – a very enjoyable stay, where we also met Jim and Mel from Cessnock. Jim took pity on Peter’s feeble efforts to catch fish and gave us 9 lovely bream rather than let us starve. Judy, was fitted with a “moonboot” engaged in physio and generally feeling a lot better and more mobile when we left for South West Rocks on the 18 July.

We stayed at a caravan park in Trial Bay – excellent facilities and friendly wildlife – visits from Kangaroos and a Kookaburra who thought he may be able to help when Irene was cooking. This really is a beautiful place, the views from the lighthouse (Smokey Cape), Trial Bay Gaol and the headlands and SW Rocks headland are fantastic! Peter went beach fishing one morning (still did not catch anything) and Irene packed a chair, book and coffee and had a brilliant couple of hours passing the time talking to those other healthy people taking their morning walk. It is funny how there have been good intentions to catch up on reading – but one does not seem to get the time! This is one place we will be revisiting.

The morning we left SW Rocks (22 July) it was very overcast, cool and blowing – but we were hopeful that Nambucca Heads would have some sunshine. Judy had arrived in Nambucca to stay with her sister Nancy and brother in law Brian, so we were also going to catch up with her. I am sure that Nambucca is a very nice place, however for the three days we were there it was cold, rained and not enjoyable. The site we stayed at was great except they put us in a spot which, after rain, was a bog-hole – we had mud about 4 inches deep outside the door. It was good to catch up with Judy, Nancy and Brian and we had two home cooked dinners thanks to Nancy. Judy much more mobile and we are hopeful her orthopaedic review on 5 August will be favourable and she may be joining us soon. Peter decided to give the fish a break and did not wet a line.

On the 25 July we left Nambucca (and yes it was raining) to head to Coffs Harbor and yes it was raining when we arrived. We had our first experience of packing up and setting down in the rain – all in all it went very well, mainly because we were pretty well organised. I am sure this will not be our first and last “wet” experience. We did not actually stay in Coffs, but at Emerald Beach which is about 20km north of Coffs. We loved Emerald Beach and other areas outside Coffs (eg Scotts Head – good park etc), but did not enjoy Coffs at all – it could have been any large town anywhere. While there we managed to catch up with Helen Van Wyck (Tim was on Navy duty in Cairns). There would be people in Canberra associated with health that may remember Tim and Helen – they moved to Sapphire Beach some 8 years ago. Helen has not changed at all – still very busy and still involved with baseball – it was good to catch up with her and both of us were envious of their housing arrangement – so close to the beach, with pool, tennis court, lagoon, ducks and a pet eel! Peter tried the beach – still nothing!! ( he is getting pissed off).

Emerald Beach was a delight – the park had a happy hour on the second day we were there, we thought we would go as a way to meet up with others. It was in the camp kitchen which was right next to our site, and which we used everyday. Well that proved the right thing to do – met some lovely people who we then met for drinks, nibbles, laughter and stories.

It was also Peters birthday on the 29 July – so he is officially retired now and soon to be pensioner. We went out for a birthday breakfast at the Coffs Jetty and decided we would have a celebratory dinner once Judy rejoined us and we were in warmer weather.

Yamba is our latest stop – arrived on the 30 July. Both Peter and I really like this area – particularly Yamba and the nearby town of Maclean (the Scottish town) – this town has the tartans painted on the power poles and has a beautiful Australian shopping street. We will be staying here until the 7 August. It is so easy to relax with this lifestyle, Peter usually finds a place to throw a line in and I “potter” - both of us tend to forget what day of the week is what and continually need to refer to a calendar – we hope this is how we will continue. The weather has been T-Shirt and shorts, with it being cooler in the evenings – something that we can put up with! We did not think a lot of Iluka but there was a camping area at Woody Head that at some time in the future we would like to stay at – good facilities and right on the beach, unfortunately it is National Park – so no pets. The view from the Iluka Bluff (which we both climbed!) was just fantastic – unfortunately we managed to wipe the photos from the camera.

Peter tried to catch a fish on the advice of the local bait expert. We tried the breakwater to Yamba which required a death defying scramble over the rocks and boulders to get near enough to the water to wet a line. Using all his agility and light-footed movement he got down to the water on two occasions and managed not to break his duck ( nor his neck). We are beginning to think we will be the only people who have travelled the length of the NSW coast line for 0 fish caught.

Had a surprise phone call from Peters cousin Glenn on Sun 3 August, he was going to Byron Bay the next day and we made arrangements to meet for a coffee in Maclean - had a good chat and caught up with news.

After all this excitement, we will be going back to Nambucca Heads (7 August) to meet up with Judy and figure out what is to happen next.

A misadventure

Had a last meal at the Forster Tuncurry ex services club Friday (and they are not recommended for value for money – everything had a surcharge for visitors) before travelling on Saturday 12 July to Port Macquarie – a lovely part of the world.

All going very well, and then we went to visit Judy’s niece – when leaving Judy stepped off the porch, missed her step and went down very heavily. Irene and Judy then spent the afternoon at the ED department, finally leaving at 8.00pm with Judy’s leg in plaster! – yes she has broken her fibula and a couple of other bones in her foot.

Luckily, she has family in PM, and she will stay in the area and will catch up to us at a later date. She is checking in to the private hospital in PM this afternoon to get some assistance to get a little better with mobility.

The First Week

All going well, now in Port Stephens – very good facilities. Came via Dubbo and thought the Dubbo Zoo was just terrific! We are doing well in the van, we all have our jobs to do and are becoming proficient at them. So far there has not been too much yelling when we are reversing or positioning the van. It is so good to be on the coast and hopefully to the warmer weather. We will be staying here for about 5 days – just to relax and unwind before heading off again.

(Good luck guessing what our call sign means – those two people that do know – please keep it to yourself)